Day Trip Part One: Southern Coast

Note: Most of this was written as notes as I went. I adapted it for this blog.

I got up early at 6:30am to make sure I'm on time for pickup for the tour. I bought a water bottle from the front desk and relaxed in the lounge. Got outside the front of the hostel around 7:45 even though official pickup is between 8-8:30. Around 8, I watched several tour buses come and go and I started getting nervous. But luckily I found one person from my hostel going to the same trip so I wasn't alone in it.

Eventually a large van came by the hostel and picked us up. I was worried it would be a giant tour bus but luckily it was a small van with 20 people or so. We only had to pick up one more person and we were on our way out of the city and traveled through farmlands.

Our tour driver is German and has the best speaking voice, I couldn’t capture his name - Otto doesn’t sound right. It is a bilingual tour but everyone is fine with just English. Our tour guide dropping great facts and random information about Iceland as a whole and whatever we're driving by.

Weather is supposedly going to be great compared to yesterday. Not as much wind and only spotty rain. But it will be cold.

Sunday is the BEST day to travel in Iceland, especially in Reykjavík area. At 8:30am, no one is driving on the roads. Since there is no public transportation like trains, only buses, its limited travel and most people drive by car. School just started a week ago too. 

Reykjavik and surrounding suburbs account for 2/3 of the population in Iceland! About 220k out of 350k! 

Northernmost capital in the world!

Rundown of schedule. “That's about that”, our guide likes to say often. 

11 car accidents so far this year in 2018. Most of them tourists. They have broken cars hoisted on stands along the highway as warning.

Driving basically on top of an active volcano on the highway. Lots of hot springs along the roads. Have to be careful because of pressure and hot water, while in this area. They try to keep the roads clear of ice and snow but most of the time it is not possible. Very short summers, long winters.

We passed the hot spring hotel that was in Secret Life of Walter Mitty!!! Sadly it is no longer in use :( A lot of Walter Mitty references in this tour.

Soon, we made quick stop on the side of the road by Hveragerthi to see the map of the road to show where we are and where we were heading.

Back on the road again. There are so many Icelandic horses!! They offer tours for few days and you stay in cabins to learn how to ride them. Next time?

We drove through the town of Selfoss - famous town, largest town on the southern coast with 7k people. Known for their sausage, made of pork beef and lamb. Has a bridge built in 1945(?)

Subway and Dominos are the main "fast food" - Icelandic folks LOVE fast food but they do not have McDonalds Burger King or Starbucks. First Dunkin Donuts opened in 2013 (or 2015?) This brought me back seeing a DD as soon as I came out of the airport arrivals in Keflavík.

Passed by rolling farms dotted with Icelandic horses, cows, and sheep. Hills grew into gigantic land structures pointing towards the sky from when the sea levels dropped. The original shoreline. You can see the levels of each era where the water receded and rocks broke.

First stop: Skógafoss Waterfall

So green and wonderful. Straight out of Lord of the Rings, with white sea birds flying close to the falls and sitting on mossy cliffs. Sun came out to show off double rainbows!

There were stairs to the top but I did not have time. I couldn't get too close otherwise the camera would be soaked! Was glad the sun peeked through in time for our arrival so we could see the rainbow. Grey clouds rolling in. It started raining as we packed into the van.

Second Stop: Reynisfjara Beach

Southern most point of Iceland. 25 minutes from Skògafoss Waterfalls.

Drove by glaciers and on rocky roads. 

Stopped at the cliffs to see the shore and broken rocks carved by glaciers long gone. Waves were very calming. In the water was lone rock island structures that broke off from mainland. I didn't catch any puffins, but a few others did spot some flying.

Spent 20 mins here.

Third Stop: Lunch in Vík

We stopped at the top of town just past the church and parked next to Vík’s graveyard so we could take a moment to see the history there and see the whole town and the coast. 

We drove down the hill towards town and parked in an area that allows us to go to multiple options for I opted for a traditional Icelandic fish stew plate. I ate with Paul from London (who is also from my hostel). He's a film guy and we hit it off well given our common background. He's quit his job and has plans to travel for the next few months until he figured out what he wants to do.

Paul and I went to a small portion Black Beach after eating, that was accessible near the restaurant. We are actually going to the beach after this, but we wanted a sneak peek before we boarded the bus. Saw a black cat. Paul showed me how to take better photos with contrasting black sand and light sky.

Spent 40 mins here at this stop.

Fourth Stop: Black Beach

We drove from Vík after lunch - quick 10 minute drive. Black beach is the most dangerous beach in Iceland because of the strong currents and strong waves. We're told to be careful and to not get too close. Tourists have died with their backs facing the water taking photos of the beach with sneaker waves drowning them. 

Got black sand in my shoes.

Spent 40 mins here.

Hey, it’s me.

Fifth Stop: Glacier Sólheimajökull

150 years ago, all of this area was glacier/ice. Now because of humans, glaciers are retreating. The area we see (while driving towards it and in the valley where the glacier lives) is carved out by it. Retreating 150+ meters yearly. 

Two signs from years ago warning of unstable glaciers marked the point where glaciers last were. Now we walk past those signs as climate change reminders and go right up to the glacier today. As you seet

There was broken blocks of ice floating away and water rushing out from under the glacier walls to show the extremeness of how fast the glacier was melting.

Remembering seeing a 10 year time lapse video of it at the Pelnar museum on Sunday, and seeing it now — made me feel quite a mix of anger and sadness. I think about the climate change deniers and want to drag them here by their ears and show them the rate of water rushing out from underneath the glaciers.

Spent 1 hr here.

Sixth Stop: Seljalandsfoss Waterfalls

Drove past a large blueberry field - saw a car parked in it and a dog running freely. That was charming.

On the way to our next and final stop, we made a pit stop at Eyjafjallajökul along the highway. A giant green moss-covered rock wall jutting up from the ground, thousands of feet high. Beyond that lies Eyjafjallajökul - the hidden volcano, and the namesake glacier.

Today, I fulfilled a dream.

I always wanted to see this place. Spoiler alert - its definitely not pronounced the way you think, even after I thought I learned how to pronounce it.

We moved on quickly and headed to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall about 15 minutes away. Its a 60meter force of nature water free fall.

The sun came out again in perfect timing, allowing us the opportunity to see another rainbow!

I put on my wind breaker over my puff jacket for extra protection and stuffed my good camera under both as we got closer to the water. We walked up the right side towards the fall. The water sprayed me as we climbed up the manmade stairs that eventually turned to slippery stone. Then walked down the "path" BEHIND the waterfall. I have to use my hoods to shield my hearing aid but had a blast. My hair and pants were soaked yet it felt so refreshing!

That’s Paul.

We continued down the "path" of cracked stone and climbed up broken rocks that acted as stairs - it was slippery and tough. 

Walking towards the parking lot, there is a vendor with goodies. Paul and I were cold and shivering so we both got hot coffee. They had so many goodies including donuts!! They had a sugar frosting donuts! I was hoping it was filled with chocolate - no, it was unfortunately filled with raspberries - my least favorite of berries. But Paul saw some kind of chocolate pecan cake and bought one for me as well, so I didn't have to wait in line since we had to rush back to the van. I inhaled that cake, my friends. It was SO good, that I didn’t take any photos.

We all piled into the van and we were well on our way back to Reykjavík, 1 1/2 hr away. I’m glad I took notes for this as I went. I didn't want to forget this one. A lot of people fell asleep. I was wide awake - from the chocolate? From my excitement? Probably both. 

I got back to my hostel around 8pm. I showered and went straight to bed after my adrenaline dropped off. 

The next trip is a double event: I'll traveling the Golden Circle and taking a dip at the Secret Lagoon.

Getting to Know Reykjavík

Toto, we're not in Boston anymore.

At 5:40am on Friday morning, I landed amidst a cold fog. As I stepped out of the plane, I felt the wonderful cold and damp air. I noticed the dense fog is more of a swirling ring of fog and the blue sky is the eye, like a storm. 

I went through border control and baggage claim in a snap. Luck had my suitcase coming down the conveyor belt as soon as I walked up. I went to the bus port and booked a roundtrip bus direct to my hostel. Originally I going to walk to my hostel from the BSI bus stop since it's cheaper, but was advised not to since it's "a long walk". I thought I could do it 🤷‍♀️ Since I walk two miles a day for work. But I'm trusting the local. 

Later I would realize she was right after driving by it - I COULD walk it, but it would be a walk.

In and out within 30 minutes, I was already on the way to the city. I knew I was going to be waiting a long time for official check in at my hostel at 2pm!

The bus ride was comfortable and quick (for 45 minutes). My first view: water streaked on the window, grey skies, rolling flat land, occasionally growing into small hills, from long gone lava fields and glaciers dotted with rising volcanoes in the distance.

I got to my hostel around 7:20ish and they had a great luggage storage that I could keep my bag in until check-in at 2pm. Grabbed my backpack and went for a walk. 

A 3 hour walk.

My hostel is on the north coast of downtown Reykjavík, facing the water. Along the shore is a walkway/bikeway from one end of they city to the other. I used this as my directional view and my “highway” to get to places quicker. 

First thing I saw was the sculpture Sun Voyager.

Then some more exploring. From end of Downtown, visiting statue dedicated (from the U.S.) to Leif Eiriksson...

...to the other, where the city hall and parliament building stand.

At 10:30am I headed back to my hostel since the fact I got what felt like an hour worth of sleep on the plane. I promptly conked out in my hostel lounge on and off for the next few hours until lunch break then went back to sleep again until 1:30pm. 

My hostel is cool you guys.

After checking in and settling in, I went back out to explore some more and did some shopping on the main street. In the evening, I booked two day trips outside the city to get my share of nature with mountains, waterfalls, glaciers and geysers.  You’ll have to wait until Monday or Tuesday to hear about it!

Later, I stopped by the bar on the main floor of the hostel around 7pm to get a beer. My hostel is also a functioning bar and restaurant at night. I ended up talking to two guys from Germany and Canada. We talked about Iceland, design and the state of our respective countries’ politics. The Canadian was very keen to hear about my thoughts on You-Know-Who — this is the first time someone asked me about it as a foreigner. Spoiler alert: I am Not A Fan. 

Honestly, I felt that I didn’t do much on the first day since I was tired. A combination of 5 hours flight overnight switching weird time zones and uncomfortable seats didn’t let me get much of a wink. I usually sleep fine on planes but this was a weird one. I fell asleep around 9pm.

And woke up at nearly 10am. Yo, I have not slept in that late in a very long time. My inner alarm clock usually wakes me up at 7am.

Housekeeping was gonna come by soon so I got dressed quick and downed a cup of coffee at the hostel bar. I also got a city 24hr city card to ride the bus and go to museums (let’s just say it didn’t end up that way so I didn’t get my cards worth. Lesson learned.) But I wonder if I can use it again in a few days because the bus drivers most definitely do not check the date (handwritten) on the back... we’ll see!

I decided to visit the Observatory where I could read a little history about Iceland’s geological history and go through a ice cave stimulator. was going to take the 13 bus to Perlan area - took me a few tries to understand what direction it was going in but after going to a main bus connection hub, I figured out a more direct bus. The 18 bus only came every hour and it only has 3 stops, and the second was where I wanted to go.

I felt like I was dropped off at a highway? Google maps said the Observatory should be right next to the stop. There was no sign. Maybe it was up? I walked left to the direction my GPS was pointing and showing a partial faint line in the direction to the observatory but not all the way. 

I found a path of broken rocks and nothing else. I guess that was the way to go? I walked up, felt more and more unsure as I walked. For a split moment, I felt lost.

One path turned into two. in which turned into two more long ones in opposite directions. I went with my guts and eventually I saw a glass dome rising above the tree line. I was relieved!!! 

I followed that and eventually ended up at the back of the observatory and walked around the front of the building. Joy!!! I was no longer lost.

There is construction going on as they remodel some sections so they offered a discount on the tickets. Winning.

The walls were pictures of the mountains and cracked earth. The entrance wasn’t obvious but as I walked up to the wall, a large section of it slid to the left. I walked through the sliding and read all about earthquakes and earth’s and Iceland’s geological history throughout the eras. It was pretty neat and informative. 

At a specific time, small groups of people can go into the ice cave. I missed the first round since I was too absorbed reading earthquakes history. But eventually I got in after 10 minutes. They had coat-like shawls on hand and I put that over the coat I already was wearing. An employee unlocked a white door and opened a rattling metal “garage” upwards and I felt the air around me drop several degrees. I didn’t know what I was expecting since I did not research this place other than “oh this is on the map i am area that’s not downtown, let’s try it”. 

I stepped in and realized this was meant to be a ice cave simulator. The snowy ice was real but the ground is made of metal sheeting/racks. There was colored lights to give off that underground effect. It was pretty cool - pardon the pun.

There was several tunnels and lots of nooks and crannies to hang out in. Upon exiting, there was a set of circular stairs going up and you take your jacket off to learn all about glaciers! 

The room was much more interactive than the earthquake exhibit. There was origami-like icebergs dotted with information about local glaciers and a giant scream that lets you stand in specific themes (flora & fauna, people, or geology) and raise your hand to interact with the screen and open more information depending on what you pointed at. This brought me back to my days as a production assistant at Northern Lights where they did similar types of interactive exhibits! 

I spent a lot of time in here. I left the room eventually and again ascended another floor and found the gift shop and actual observatory. Going outside, I remembered Iceland weather: cold rainy and windy. I took a couple of pictures in between periods of brief rain! The clouds broke enough to allow for some blue skies to show.

I could see the shores and the whole low-lying city of Reykjavík in 360-degree view.

The rainy wind came back around again and I hustled back inside quick. I can say at this point I feel like I’m understanding the weather better and don’t feel frustrated anymore. 

I went back inside and ate lunch at the cafe. A charcuterie turned out to be much fancier than I anticipated.

It’s at this point I realized how dangerously low my phone battery was, since I forgot the cord to my travel battery pack. I have horrendously low luck with apps and they always always drain my phone battery. I had to limit my use of google maps and the bus transit app. When I left and was outside the building, I was torn about getting lost on the pathway and risking my phone dying before I could figure out the bus (which by the way, ran only hourly!) or walking down the street where I saw a tour bus leaving. I deliberated for a good few minutes walking around the parking lot and nervously clutching my phone at 23% battery. 

Then a saw a big van pulling up with Perlan on the side. A bunch of tourists walked off. I noticed a small phrase that says “Free transfer to Perlan”. I got hopeful, does that mean also a ride back to the city? About what if it was part of another tour group or hotel? I gave it a shot and walked up to talk to the driver.

“I noticed that this is a free transfer to here. Do you go back to the city too?”

The driver replied back joyously “Oh yes!! We drop off right in downtown at the glass building, you know the one? Come on board!”

I was so freaking relieved, I’m sure it showed. I got in and it was obvious we were to wait a little so we can see if more people needed a ride. The guy and I chatted for the next ten minutes. He was Polish and talked about Iceland, the forest trees around Perlan and how windy it is. He said that the mayor of Reykjavík has promised to “stop the wind” and laughed so loud at that. The city is so windy that they plant trees to trap it and limit wind damage. The mayor wanted to plant thousands of trees on a nearby small island. Yet to see that happen he says. 

One more lady came on the bus and we were off. Eventually, I was back in an area I was familiar with. I could rely on my physical city map more. I walked along the shore walk. Another period of rain came by, but it turned to downpour so I ran for shelter under a bus stop where other people were seeking shelter too. 

It passed after five minutes and turned to a light drizzle and I resumed walking.  The sun came out in full for the first time I’ve been in Iceland. After a few moments I realized how light and pretty teal the water was and went to take a photo. Then I saw, probably for the first time in my life, an end to end rainbow.

It was a view to remember. I went back to the hostel after few moments of enjoying it and watching the rainbow fade away. I wanted to try going to a city thermal pool. I was going to a thermal springs in a few days so might as well try firsthand in the city. I talked to the hostel concierge who eased my worries about not hearing while inside the pool area and she said I should definitely try it. So I did.

I changed into my swimsuit and grabbed a backup of changing clothes and went. It was only 7 minutes from my hostel and was open until 10pm. It’s also fairly cheap for a thermal pool at 1800ish ISK with additional towel rental. I went in the changing room, put all my stuff away and showered as culturally necessities since you had to be clean before entering the pool.

The pool was more like three pools. There was one large one that was four swimming lanes. That water was super nice - it was pretty warm for a “regular” pool. The other pools aside it were 39 degrees celsius and there was a kid wading pool area as well. I switched between the swimming lane and the 39* pool. There were hot pools on up on the tower/upper floor at 42* which I hung out for 15 mins. Later on, I found there was a steam room (!) as well next swimming lane pool. I got to live out hundreds of movie fantasies by sitting in that steam. Like high school sports dudebros or gangsters exchanging information? no? just me? Well. I couldn’t stay there for so long because it was extremely hot and the steam was thick. 

After sweating it out for two hours, I headed back to my hostel to prepare for my first big trip tomorrow and to sit down and write this post. I’m ready for a big adventure. I’m nervous since I’ll be part of a tour group which I never done before and I pretty much just booked it on a whim because I was overwhelmed by all the choices and not having a plan in the first place. 

I’m excited I have a plan now though. Tomorrow I will be coasting the south shores of Iceland where I will see waterfalls, cold black sand beaches and glaciers. 

Ready for my next adventure!