Note: Most of this was written as notes as I went. I adapted it for this blog.
I got up early at 6:30am to make sure I'm on time for pickup for the tour. I bought a water bottle from the front desk and relaxed in the lounge. Got outside the front of the hostel around 7:45 even though official pickup is between 8-8:30. Around 8, I watched several tour buses come and go and I started getting nervous. But luckily I found one person from my hostel going to the same trip so I wasn't alone in it.
Eventually a large van came by the hostel and picked us up. I was worried it would be a giant tour bus but luckily it was a small van with 20 people or so. We only had to pick up one more person and we were on our way out of the city and traveled through farmlands.
Our tour driver is German and has the best speaking voice, I couldn’t capture his name - Otto doesn’t sound right. It is a bilingual tour but everyone is fine with just English. Our tour guide dropping great facts and random information about Iceland as a whole and whatever we're driving by.
Weather is supposedly going to be great compared to yesterday. Not as much wind and only spotty rain. But it will be cold.
Sunday is the BEST day to travel in Iceland, especially in Reykjavík area. At 8:30am, no one is driving on the roads. Since there is no public transportation like trains, only buses, its limited travel and most people drive by car. School just started a week ago too.
Reykjavik and surrounding suburbs account for 2/3 of the population in Iceland! About 220k out of 350k!
Northernmost capital in the world!
Rundown of schedule. “That's about that”, our guide likes to say often.
11 car accidents so far this year in 2018. Most of them tourists. They have broken cars hoisted on stands along the highway as warning.
Driving basically on top of an active volcano on the highway. Lots of hot springs along the roads. Have to be careful because of pressure and hot water, while in this area. They try to keep the roads clear of ice and snow but most of the time it is not possible. Very short summers, long winters.
We passed the hot spring hotel that was in Secret Life of Walter Mitty!!! Sadly it is no longer in use :( A lot of Walter Mitty references in this tour.
Soon, we made quick stop on the side of the road by Hveragerthi to see the map of the road to show where we are and where we were heading.
Back on the road again. There are so many Icelandic horses!! They offer tours for few days and you stay in cabins to learn how to ride them. Next time?
We drove through the town of Selfoss - famous town, largest town on the southern coast with 7k people. Known for their sausage, made of pork beef and lamb. Has a bridge built in 1945(?)
Subway and Dominos are the main "fast food" - Icelandic folks LOVE fast food but they do not have McDonalds Burger King or Starbucks. First Dunkin Donuts opened in 2013 (or 2015?) This brought me back seeing a DD as soon as I came out of the airport arrivals in Keflavík.
Passed by rolling farms dotted with Icelandic horses, cows, and sheep. Hills grew into gigantic land structures pointing towards the sky from when the sea levels dropped. The original shoreline. You can see the levels of each era where the water receded and rocks broke.
First stop: Skógafoss Waterfall
So green and wonderful. Straight out of Lord of the Rings, with white sea birds flying close to the falls and sitting on mossy cliffs. Sun came out to show off double rainbows!
There were stairs to the top but I did not have time. I couldn't get too close otherwise the camera would be soaked! Was glad the sun peeked through in time for our arrival so we could see the rainbow. Grey clouds rolling in. It started raining as we packed into the van.
Second Stop: Reynisfjara Beach
Southern most point of Iceland. 25 minutes from Skògafoss Waterfalls.
Drove by glaciers and on rocky roads.
Stopped at the cliffs to see the shore and broken rocks carved by glaciers long gone. Waves were very calming. In the water was lone rock island structures that broke off from mainland. I didn't catch any puffins, but a few others did spot some flying.
Spent 20 mins here.
Third Stop: Lunch in Vík
We stopped at the top of town just past the church and parked next to Vík’s graveyard so we could take a moment to see the history there and see the whole town and the coast.
We drove down the hill towards town and parked in an area that allows us to go to multiple options for I opted for a traditional Icelandic fish stew plate. I ate with Paul from London (who is also from my hostel). He's a film guy and we hit it off well given our common background. He's quit his job and has plans to travel for the next few months until he figured out what he wants to do.
Paul and I went to a small portion Black Beach after eating, that was accessible near the restaurant. We are actually going to the beach after this, but we wanted a sneak peek before we boarded the bus. Saw a black cat. Paul showed me how to take better photos with contrasting black sand and light sky.
Spent 40 mins here at this stop.
Fourth Stop: Black Beach
We drove from Vík after lunch - quick 10 minute drive. Black beach is the most dangerous beach in Iceland because of the strong currents and strong waves. We're told to be careful and to not get too close. Tourists have died with their backs facing the water taking photos of the beach with sneaker waves drowning them.
Got black sand in my shoes.
Spent 40 mins here.
Hey, it’s me.
Fifth Stop: Glacier Sólheimajökull
150 years ago, all of this area was glacier/ice. Now because of humans, glaciers are retreating. The area we see (while driving towards it and in the valley where the glacier lives) is carved out by it. Retreating 150+ meters yearly.
Two signs from years ago warning of unstable glaciers marked the point where glaciers last were. Now we walk past those signs as climate change reminders and go right up to the glacier today. As you seet
There was broken blocks of ice floating away and water rushing out from under the glacier walls to show the extremeness of how fast the glacier was melting.
Remembering seeing a 10 year time lapse video of it at the Pelnar museum on Sunday, and seeing it now — made me feel quite a mix of anger and sadness. I think about the climate change deniers and want to drag them here by their ears and show them the rate of water rushing out from underneath the glaciers.
Spent 1 hr here.
Sixth Stop: Seljalandsfoss Waterfalls
Drove past a large blueberry field - saw a car parked in it and a dog running freely. That was charming.
On the way to our next and final stop, we made a pit stop at Eyjafjallajökul along the highway. A giant green moss-covered rock wall jutting up from the ground, thousands of feet high. Beyond that lies Eyjafjallajökul - the hidden volcano, and the namesake glacier.
Today, I fulfilled a dream.
I always wanted to see this place. Spoiler alert - its definitely not pronounced the way you think, even after I thought I learned how to pronounce it.
We moved on quickly and headed to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall about 15 minutes away. Its a 60meter force of nature water free fall.
The sun came out again in perfect timing, allowing us the opportunity to see another rainbow!
I put on my wind breaker over my puff jacket for extra protection and stuffed my good camera under both as we got closer to the water. We walked up the right side towards the fall. The water sprayed me as we climbed up the manmade stairs that eventually turned to slippery stone. Then walked down the "path" BEHIND the waterfall. I have to use my hoods to shield my hearing aid but had a blast. My hair and pants were soaked yet it felt so refreshing!
That’s Paul.
We continued down the "path" of cracked stone and climbed up broken rocks that acted as stairs - it was slippery and tough.
Walking towards the parking lot, there is a vendor with goodies. Paul and I were cold and shivering so we both got hot coffee. They had so many goodies including donuts!! They had a sugar frosting donuts! I was hoping it was filled with chocolate - no, it was unfortunately filled with raspberries - my least favorite of berries. But Paul saw some kind of chocolate pecan cake and bought one for me as well, so I didn't have to wait in line since we had to rush back to the van. I inhaled that cake, my friends. It was SO good, that I didn’t take any photos.
We all piled into the van and we were well on our way back to Reykjavík, 1 1/2 hr away. I’m glad I took notes for this as I went. I didn't want to forget this one. A lot of people fell asleep. I was wide awake - from the chocolate? From my excitement? Probably both.
I got back to my hostel around 8pm. I showered and went straight to bed after my adrenaline dropped off.
The next trip is a double event: I'll traveling the Golden Circle and taking a dip at the Secret Lagoon.
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